How to Choose a Tie to Match Your Shirt and Suit: A Guide to Colours and Patterns
The right tie turns a good suit into a memorable one. But with so many colours and patterns to choose from, it is easy to hesitate. After more than 50 years of handmaking ties in Barcelona, we at Marco Pascali have seen every combination. Here is our practical guide to getting it right every time.
The basic rule: one star of the show
Suit, shirt and tie work as a team, and only one of them should stand out. If both shirt and suit are plain, the tie can take centre stage with a pattern or a bold colour. If the shirt is striped or checked, the tie should be more understated.
How to match your tie to your shirt
White shirt
The perfect canvas: any tie works. This is the moment for bold colours such as burgundy, bottle green or yellow, or a characterful paisley pattern.
Light blue shirt
The most versatile shirt in your wardrobe. It works beautifully with navy, burgundy, brown and earthy tones. Avoid blues too close to the shirt: without contrast, the tie disappears.
Pink shirt
Pair it with navy, grey or purple. A navy polka dot tie on a pink shirt is a classic that never fails.
Striped or checked shirt
Scale is the key: if the shirt has a small pattern, choose a tie with a larger one, and vice versa. Solid or micro pattern ties are the safest choice.
How to match your tie to your suit
- Navy suit: the easiest to pair. Burgundy, green, mustard, pink or orange all look great.
- Grey suit: works with almost anything. For a sober look, navy or black; to add life, burgundy, purple or pink.
- Black suit: best for evening events. Plain ties in dark or silver tones, or a silk bow tie.
- Brown or beige suit: autumn tones such as olive, maroon or burnt orange. Wool ties are a perfect match.
What each pattern says
- Stripes: the most classic business pattern. It conveys confidence and order.
- Polka dots: elegant with a playful touch. The smaller the dot, the more formal.
- Paisley: full of personality, ideal for weddings, dinners and weekends.
- Geometric and medallion: very versatile, equally at home in the office or at an event.
- Solid colours: the foundation of any wardrobe and essential with striped or checked shirts.
Fabric and season
Silk is the year-round choice and the one for the most formal occasions: it has sheen, drapes well and ties a clean knot. In autumn and winter, wool and silk-wool ties add texture and warmth, and pair especially well with tweed or flannel jackets.
The right width and length
Tie width should be in proportion to your jacket lapels: narrow lapels, narrow tie. For most men, 7 to 8 cm is the most balanced width. As for length, the tip of the tie should reach your belt buckle, neither above nor below.
Mistakes to avoid
- Wearing an identical tie and pocket square: they should complement each other, not match. Discover our pocket squares.
- Mixing two patterns of the same scale.
- Choosing a tie lighter than the shirt, except in very specific looks.
- A loose or crooked knot: a good knot matters as much as the tie itself.
Handmade in Barcelona since 1973
All our ties are handmade in Barcelona from selected Italian silk. If you are not sure which tie to choose for your suit, get in touch and we will help. Discover our full collection of silk neckties.